Wanna see a Spanish Fiesta?

It's a bit rainy today, so I stay near the house. Not only because of that but because Consuelo told me yesterday the family is having some friends over for a party.

 

As the rain starts, I'm sitting on the back terrace painting a bit. The rain is a great soundtrack to paint by as it thunders and flashes. Tio comes by and tries to give me something to sit on because he's worried I'll dirty my pants. I shake my head saying it's ok. He shakes his in disbelief. I plop myself down where ever it looks good, damn the dirt. After a while, he comes back up and tells me it's time for wine - "Come 'on now you need some."

 

In my 20's I was very fond of the pub crawl. In NYC it was a cheap way to drink and get to know different neighborhoods. In Denver, it was an annual Memorial Day kick off event that my entire ad agency did on bikes. 

The "LUSH" bike tour resulted in an injury and scar from my friend Toni turning around to say something but with both of our responses dulled from too much beer; we crashed into each other resulting in a Cirque du Soleil style bike throw and my leg gash squirting blood everywhere. 

The guy who was walking in the park saw it, applauded and told us we looked like a couple of circus clowns. The injury looked worse than it was and after seeing the creative guys reaction to it, I decided not to wear a skirt for two weeks. I didn't want to have to explain to my clients how I got the injury. 

Nothing spells confidence for your client service skills like a drunken bike injury.

In Spain I constantly feel like I am on a pub crawl but I don't have to go anywhere because Tio keeps pouring. We chat for a bit while he has some food and I have a little too. Once I see that the party is in full swing despite rain, I head outside in my trusty raincoat. Nothing is going to stop the family from having fun and the men have put up the necessary protection to keep the party going.

First we have the Sidra and wine. If you don't want to go into the traditional pour, there is a barrel machine that goes on top of the bottle and squirts it out. Jose goes into introduction mode and explains to me who everyone is and I say hello. The table is long and full and after he explains it all he adds "Do you understand?" Sure. 

Then comes the bread. A huge basket of it to be accompanied by a giant pot of meat stew. Lourdes and Mabelle have been cooking all afternoon and it shows. They also have huge plates of papas fritas and boy is it delicious.

  

Once everyone has gotten their fill, out comes the coffee and some kind of homemade liquor. It's bottled up, dated and two of them have fruit in it. The guys push it toward me and tell me to try it. 

After I try two and grimace cause it's so strong, the men laugh and tell me to try the third which has an unidentifiable fruit in it. Drinking it in one gulp per their instruction, I point to it and tell them it's the best. They laugh and smile. Everyone is putting it in their coffee.

Next comes the dessert. Pastries and homemade cake. The kids run around trying to tickle each other and are screaming in delight. They start reaching through the plastic walls to freak out their grandmothers but the grandmothers catch on and grab them.

 

All in all a good day despite the rain and luckily no freak injury.

Wanna see a Spanish Fiesta?

Family Tree 2.0

My stomach is getting WAY too used to these regularly scheduled big meals. Noon rolls around and it starts screaming "FEED ME!". It's going to go into withdrawal when I return to Key West. Don't get me wrong I love a big juicy meal but sometimes I don't have time and I feed along the way. 

Joking around with Monica as Tio tries to pour me another glass of wine, she says "You're going to return an alcoholic!". Something I thought about on the Senior Spring Break trip as Tio kept pouring me wine the Senior ladies eyes bugged out with each glass poured. I had to stop him at two cause I didn't want the ladies to keel over.

I'm more worried about the five course meals I tell her. Which today, she asks me to come over and look in a pot filled with meat. "Do you know what this is?" she asks. "Beef short ribs?" I reply. "No it's deer" she says with a sort of grimace "Do you want some?". Normally, I would recoil at eating Bambi but my stomach is ruling and I say load it up! 

There's certain things I'm discovering that are ingrained. I guess it all stems from where you come from. Little things like, I like to eat dessert with really teeny tiny utensils; think espresso spoon. When I first had dessert here, guess what was used, Huh? So that's where that comes from. I love wildflowers especially the ones that look like weeds and they are peppered here everywhere. Different things I enjoy I am finding in Piedras.

The cousins come over most everyday to hang out to sun, eat and drink. They lounge and work a bit in the yard. I bounce in and out going places which they look at strangely but have kinda gotten used to it. I think it all comes down to our sides of the family. Which brings me to when Angel explained it all to me. It was the first week I was here and Angel pulls out his PC to show me the family tree.

On an excel org chart. 

I nodded and laughed; the family tree 2.0 style. After I helped him fill in my family branch (or bubbles) he began to tell me the story of our family. Here's what I heard: 

Pilar, my great grandmother, and her brothers headed for the States while their other brother stayed behind and lived on the farm. My relatives didn't have any money so they worked jobs no one wanted in order to make enough money for passage to the U.S. My great grandmother went first and when she found a suitable place to live she sent for her brothers. 

It was great, he has compiled a write up of the whole thing complete with family tree org chart and some amazing old photos in PDF format. We were flipping through a digital photo book on his computer. Many were pictures of the relatives together on the farm and one with a burro in the house.

As we looked over everything, it really helped to know the whole story. We did this over a drink they gave me - a little whiskey, coffee and ice cream. "It's very rich!" they all said and it was really good. 

I'm finding that after visiting different towns, I always like Piedras the best. Maybe it stems from originally being from here or that the family has been so nice. I don't know.

Angel whips out a flash drive to load all the info on and transfer it to my computer. "Wait. Is it Mac compatible?" I ask. He doesn't quite understand it. "Yo Tengo una Manzana." (I have an Apple) I explain. "Ah, Si!" he replies.

Somehow I don't think this is quite the conversation our former relatives would ever imagine us having.

Playa Arnao

A much needed beach day and what a beach! 

Tio just couldn't understand why I didn't want to go to the big fiesta day in Aviles. After Medieval madness yesterday, I was set. "I don't understand you." he says shaking his head. Yeah, we'll he's not the first.

Pretty much, I can take large groups of people in small doses. Consuelo understands as she shakes her head in agreement. I told her I don't like to be smushed in (in a non-verbal communication). She totally gets it. 

Her and I have gotten into a similar vibe and I think it helps her understand me as well. At first she thought I was nuts bouncing in and out of the house. She doesn't leave it much so this must have been foreign and I probably looked crazy. Now she asks me "Are you going to the beach?" instead of "Where are you going???". I credit this all to me secretly turning down the TV when Tio leaves the room. She can't stand the volume and when I do this little thing she smiles - it goes a LONG way. 

I was set on finding Playa Arnao, a local known beach that you have to walk to in an out of the way place. Before I left though, I told Consuelo I would have a bit of lunch. Here's the thing, unless they see me physically put food in my mouth - they think I'm not eating. I'm eating more here than ever and I've eaten more swine than I care to think of. 

I try to eek out a small lunch but as soon as I sit down, Tio and Consuelo start filling the table with more items in an attempt to get me to eat more. "Why don't you like fruit?" "Why no wine?" "How 'bout some chocolate?" "Banana yogurt?" "You need to eat some meat!!" I quickly chow down and scramble out cause if I eat too much I need to siesta and I've got plans! 

I take the bus to an area where I need to start walking. Something about the bus here amazes me. The bus driver makes change. 

Seriously, I am mesmerized every time I go on it. You put your money on this platform and he/she has a cash drawer and makes change and produces a ticket. I've even seen one of them drive, give change and hand me a ticket all at the same time. It blows my mind - such skill.

I walk along the river of rats and I understand why they are there - it stinks!! Go through some areas that look like I'm walking through someone's yard until I get to a small tunnel and walk through. The beach pic above is the first thing I saw. 

It's great. A bit like the rock lounge cove with a bit more beach. There's a local vibe here more than Salinas which I have heard is a bit snooty. As it was explained, anytime a woman is walking in heels over cobblestone you know it's a bit 'o snoot. It's still nice over there too. I hang for a bit until the tide comes in and takes over the beach.

 

There's a cool bar built into the side of the hill and when the tide takes over, I decide to hike up there. A real mom and pop place where they also serve food. It smells so good, I decide to have a little and it's not bad. I try to pay the bartender off the bat and he waves me off, my fast American ways getting in the way again.

After I eat, I go to pay at the bar and see the family getting ready to have dinner (the mid-day meal) and it has everything I have been used to seeing for ours. Soup, salad, a big loaf of bread, meat, wine and a bit of pasta. It makes me smile and then think will I be able to handle not having a five course meal when I get back to Key West?

I head back home and immediately get some yogurt.

 

Medieval Times - Donde esta Harry Potter?

What can you say about a Medieval festival? Not much - I think the pictures say it all. There were lots of homemade soaps, jewelry, breads and cheeses. 

A few Medieval Lessons Learned:

The guys did not look too happy in their outfits. Yeah, wearing tights isn't easy. 

You have to watch out for burro poop. 

Even the devil needs a smoke break.

And I was a bit disappointed that there was no "flogging" station.

All in all it was fun to walk through and check out what 1479 might look like. 

I'm sitting at the cafe using their wee fee and ordered some toast with jam and butter. The jam tasted not so good so I didn't eat half of it. The very nice guy who works here brought me a piece of toasted bread with olive oil and a piece of ham. He told me it's the traditional way to do it. It was friggin' delicious and I think I am officially on the ham train.

I'm going beach hunting today. There's supposed to be a really great local beach nearby but you have to pass a river of rats to get to it. Should be a good time!

Medieval Times - Donde esta Harry Potter?

Come 'on - Let's party like it's 1479!

Yesterday was a big day. Senior Spring Break wore me out a bit and so today I chose to take it easy. 

Went to the beach and sat in the rock lounge to begin reading "A Farewell to Arms". Why have I not read Hemingway until now? He writes from experience and lives it up - I like it. 

As I sat in the rock lounge and had a bite to eat, I watched high tide rumble in and crash into shore. The best part was when it went back. As the water receded, the sound it make on the rocks was breathtaking. The water went running back to it's source screaming, "Wait don't forget me!"

After the beach, I decided to check out Aviles. For the last two weeks they have been celebrating the San Augustin festival. I guess it's the city's patron saint and in it's honor they have party upon party. They have had games for both kids and adults; films in the plaza; and a Van Halen tribute band called Ban Jalen. This is the 80's version complete with a Spanish David Lee Roth.

This week it's the Medieval Festival to commemorate the markets in Aviles cerca 1479. Which brings me to my favorite medieval quote from "The Cable Guy". 

Jim Carrey and Matthew Broderick go to the Medieval Times restaurant and Matthew asks an annoyed waitress (Janine Garafalo) for a fork. Her response is as follows:

I've been looking forward to this and have been desperately searching for the animal market. Today I found the main part of the mercado and walked through it even though it was closed for siesta. It looks like a good time and I'll get up early tomorrow to catch it pre-siesta if possible.

Speaking of parties, one senior asked me if I liked to dance when we were disembarking the tour bus last night. I said "Sure." Then she invited me to an upcoming dance. Tio got all excited and said, "Yes, we'll go to it next Wednesday." I imagine it'll be interesting to see some possible authentic dancing. If anything, I could teach the Seniors how to do the Robot.

Thelma and Luis: Road trip to Leon

About a week ago, Tio asked me if I wanted to go to Leon, the capital city of Asturias. I said "Sure." He was glad and told me he'd get two bus tickets and by the way the bus leaves at 7 am. I had no idea what I was in for. 

So here it is today, I get up and come downstairs when Tio says "We'll make good time but you need to open your eyes." We walk to the bus station in the dark and when we get on I realize that I am the youngest one on the bus and up at this hour for that matter. Let's just say it's the over 60 crowd and they are surprised to see me as I them.  

I ask Tio where he bought the tickets and he tells me the Senior Citizen club. Ah, the pieces fall into place. So we're off. I fall asleep to a song about chocolate and wake up to a song about mayonnaise and all the things you can put it on. First question I ponder when awaking, "Are there any anorexics in Spain?". Probably not because I can't imagine a Spaniard even fathoming the notion of willingly throwing up food. If anything you might even get slapped for it. 

So we stop at a roadside cafe for a coffee break. Everyone has coffee and when the seniors get back on board the bus I feel like I'm on Spring Break. They're quite chipper with that coffee. It becomes the Senior Citizen Spring Break Bus. Just exchange beer and Beastie Boys for Coffee and Casio keyboard synthesized music about food.

We get to this restaurant/hotel and sit down again for coffee. There's a gigantic pot of it in front of everyone but no one's pouring. So I grab it, give some to Tio and ask the rest of the table if they want some. They all start putting their mugs in front of me and I feel like I just tapped a keg. 

Good God what is the bus going to be like?? 

I won't find that out because after the coffee we get herded into this basement and sit down. A guy comes out in front of all of these signs and begins to speak about health issues. I'm about to get a lecture on Osteoperosis. 

I have to bite down on my lip to stop my laughing cause at this point I realize I have taken on the Steve Guttenberg role in Cocoon. This guy starts quoting things out of magazine and I think, "Oh no." Then he pulls out this machine and tells the group that they could use it for 30 minutes a day, the length of one program, and get all the exercise they need. Oh Jesus. 

I have to go to the bathroom which gives me a good excuse to get some air and get away from the show. I sit outside for a while and listen to this guy. I get pissed off at him and go in and stand next to the front of where he's speaking. The seniors have lined up to try out the machine and I tell the guy I want to try it too. 

He doesn't like this and ignores me. This lady who just gets off it waves me to go up front so I throw my purse down and get on. 

He begrudgingly starts it up and I laugh as it vibrates under my feet telling me how many calories I'm burning. Bullshit! 

I start doing squats on it. 

A couple of the ladies are laughing and when I get off one tells me I don't need it. Tio asks me what I thought and I say, I prefer walking. "Natural is better" he says. He follows it up with "I think this guy is unethical." Ya think?!?!

Then it's Tio's turn, he starts disputing the guy's claims about the electromagnetic stuff and they get into it. I smile and love it. The guy gets worked up a bit and starts to ignore Tio. Then as he realizes no one is biting, he does it. He throws out the cancer card. 

My Spanish blood boils cause this scumbag is trying to take advantage of these seniors who don't need this stuff. As he winds up for the final pitch and talks about the cost, I walk out - cause if I don't I'm going to punch his face in. 

I guess I made an impression because some of the seniors start asking me who I am, where I'm from, and if I have a boyfriend. One of them tells me Tio is buying something and I stomp in there to get him. 

"Did you buy something?" I ask.

"Yes, the mattress pad." he says. 

"How much?" I ask

"500 Euros." he says

"No! Tio, I don't like this guy. He's lying." I exclaim.

I'm looking through my dictionary frantically for words.

Tio loves that I'm getting all worked up over it and asks me why I think he's lying. I tell him that he talks about the benefits of water but they give everyone a lot of coffee. He talks about the benefits of walking and he makes everyone sit for two hours and finally when no one is interested in buying he says CANCER.

He's laughing and tells me he has 7 days to decide if he doesn't like it and if he doesn't he can return it. I tell him 7 days is not a lot of time. He disagrees with me and tells me he'll see how it works. I tell him if in 7 days he doesn't like it, I'm going to return it to this guy's big mouth. Tio claps, smiles and loves it.

So finally after lunch, we leave this scene for the actual tour portion of the trip. See some medieval churches which are cool. Then we see this modern church and the confession is open. I start taking pics of the open booth and consider going in to try out a Spanish confession. One of the seniors waves me off, and I think "Yeah, it would take way too long - we've only got an hour!"

We get back on the bus and start the trip back to Piedras. On the way home, they put in a DVD of this lady singing. Just think Lawrence Welk with a Mariachi band. As we pass one town, Tio tells me about a street fight he saw between Franco's police and the working people. He tells me he's really old cause it was when he was in his 20's. I tell him he looks like he's 70 and he thanks me. 

"That's why I need the mattress pad." he says. I start to shake my head. "But I'm going to tell him I need 15 days to try it out because 7 is too short." he exclaims.

BOO YAH! 

Look up...

Looking up is the best. You see so much going on, especially here. In the morning women look out their windows to see what's the haps. A lot of them stamp mud-filled shoes or shake dusty rugs out their windows. You gotta watch out sometimes. 

The thing I like most is laundry. It's so beautiful the way it blows in the wind and you can tell what kind of day someone had or what their favorite color is. Or sometimes, if you're really lucky, you see the largest pair of underpants you've ever seen.  

When I first moved to NYC, a group of my best guy friends advised me not to look up. They were all from Long Island and they gave me a ton of advice seeing how I'd never been there and was moving blind. 

"Say whatever you need with confidence, even if you don't know what you really want." was the first nugget. This was brought up when I thought "How am I going to ask for where I want to go when I've never been there before?" Another piece of advice was "Whatever you do, don't go to the Bronx." The person who told me this scared me so much I wanted to make sure I didn't end up there on my first day. 

The boys had me practice saying where I needed to go for the first taxi I would take into the big city. After my first try, one of them said "No, say it like you mean it and add some anger!" 

Ok... "Yo! Take me to the corner of West 4th and Washington Square Park North. And f*cking step on it!" They liked that and I passed.

"Don't look up at the buildings cause you'll look like a God Damn tourist." they said. "Really? I can't do that?" I asked. "NO!!!" they affirmed.

I had all this info swimming in my head when I landed at LaGuardia airport. Wound up from all the things I couldn't or shouldn't do. Thinking through all of it heading towards the taxi stall, an older man approached me "Do you need a car?" 

"YES!" I said without thinking twice. 

He led me out towards the car and while we were walking through a parking garage, I thought "What the hell am I doing?". We arrived at a beat up, burnt sienna, old school Cadillac limo. 

"Is your car?" I asked. "Yep." he said, starting to grab my bags. "Hold on a sec, uh can I see some ID?" me asking not really knowing what I was looking for other than you can't pass something by me - don't take me to the Bronx. 

"Sure." he said. I took his limo license and business card - Rudy's limo. Not knowing where the hell this was going, I started to shimmy the license to check for a hologram state icon. As I was doing this, he said "You know... New York isn't as bad as everyone says."

With that I smiled and handed him back the stuff and we were off. We drove down through the tunnel and I had no idea what to expect. As we drove I sat up near the partition and listened to his stories. He used to be the manager for jazz drummer Buddy Rich and told me about the time they went on the Tonight Show and met Johnny Carson. 

I was enthralled and as he was chatting we came out of the tunnel and I looked up through the moonroof at the buildings. I was in awe. Walls upon walls of buildings and I got to look at them behind peeling tinted glass. 

It was the best. No matter what, always look up...

DOOOoodie!

My body feels like it's unraveled and I'm getting into this whole slow down concept a little too much. Went to Aviles to find a medieval animal market but it was a no show.

I'm starting to understand the whole "siesta" concept a little too well. Don't know if it's the fact that I'm finally in relax mode or the fact that at mid-day, I eat a meal to choke a horse. Afterwards, all I want to do is lay down. And that's exactly what I did in Aviles. 

I went to the park with the idea to paint but when I saw a park bench, it was over. I've succumbed to the fact that there's no way of avoiding looking like a bum. And I don't care - it's bumtastic! 

I lay down on a park bench and put the backpack behind my head. Get a couple glances from some park-goers. One guy in particular who is speedwalking and wakes me up with his clip clop shoes. There's no middle ground on this - I'm gonna own it. When he comes around for his second lap I make sure I'm even more sprawled out on the bench accompanied by snoring.

I look up and notice some pretty leaves so I break out the camera and begin to take pics. Which causes me to get up and see what else is around. I find a part of the park that is dog free which means it's doodie free. Look around a bit and see this guy with the right idea siestaing under a tree. Ah, that looks comfy. So I try it in a patch of sun. Much better, this bum isn't that hardened yet and the grass feels good and soft.

When I get done laying around, I look up to find the guy staring at me with a look that says "Hey! Stop stealing my moves!" 

I can't it's BUMTASTIC!